Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera’s Fall 2020 collection debuted at the newly opened “The Shed” in Hudson Yards, a glass-walled bit of modernity in the middle of the city. Creative Director Wes Gordon’s designs, however, contrasted nicely with so much glass and steel—these were soft, pretty things for ladies who aren’t in too big of a hurry to get anywhere. From sheer lace whites to bold, voluminous gowns in blues and all shades of yellow, from golden to lemon. A black column gown was a bit more austere, but nonetheless lovely. Flat lace-up brogues accompanied many of the looks for another bit of contrast. It’s an assured collection that’s a lesson in balances. –Kerry Pieri

Jonathan Simkhai

Simkhai was inspired by the photographer Julius Shulman for his Fall offering—Shulman shoots architecture on the West Coast. It’s a bit of a love story to LA, Simkhai’s home base after so many years in NYC. This translated to tailored pieces, like trench coats, jumpsuits, and suiting. These pieces gave way to softer fare, silk dresses in scarf prints with fringe inspired by Simkhai’s family heritage in Iran before the 1979 revolution. There is also a collection of knits, from dresses to sweater sets. All quite personal and very wearable. -Kerry Pieri


Zimmermann’s show notes announced the brand’s dedication to helping Australia recover from recent wildfires. The brand is inherently Aussie, showcasing that laidback seaside vibe so many Sydney natives share. The Fall offering was a bit less boho beach girl and a bit more tailored, with bold, printed suiting. There were ruffles upon ruffles and a poncho for those chilly Indian summer nights. -Kerry Pieri

Brock Collection

Kristopher Brock and Laura Vassar’s favorite theme, dark romance, got a redux this season with an ample dose of tailoring. The label, known for its feminine dresses, corset tops, and floral prints brought their brand codes in full force, but punctuated the collection with fluid suiting and tailored outerwear for the street-style equestrienne. In Little Women terms, think Jo’s renegade irreverence paired with Amy’s fashion-forward polish. With a gothic-meets-countryside vibe that fit for Fall, it’s easy to imagine Fall 2020’s Brock Collection girl riding astride at rapid speed in her Victoriana-inspired gown through the hills of…Central Park or Malibu, to meet the girls for cocktails. —Carrie Goldberg

Tory Burch

There’s nothing like a cup of coffee and a visit to a gallery on a lazy Sunday morning in New York. And while a New York Fashion Week Sunday morning is anything but lazy, Tory Burch welcomed attendees to her show at Sotheby’s with a cup of piping hot San Ambroeus brew and an art-meets-fashion show. Sculptures by artist Francesca DiMattio, 11 of them to be exact, scattered the runway, serving as the backdrop to Burch’s latest array. The designer describes DiMattio’s work as pieces that “imbue the decorative with strength and power.” Expectedly, Burch’s collection did the same, softening the power of suiting with more fluid cuts, and smattering wear-to-work dresses with DiMattio’s ladylike prints. —Carrie Goldberg

Brandon Maxwell

Brandon Maxwell is going full-on Americana. The designer and a celeb in his own right chose a quintessential New York locale as the backdrop for his show, the American Museum of Natural History. There were Cheer stars front row and a super moon outside, but no spectacle was needed—because the clothes were executed that well. The fabrications were rich, the cuts classic and unfussy, and the message clear: Maxwell is here to compete for top pecking order with New York’s big designers and not looking back. -Kerry Pieri

Christopher John Rogers

There hasn’t been a new, true evening designer of note out of New York in recent memory, and Christopher John Rogers is staking his place in the realm of taffeta and full skirts. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner is here for the drama, turning out a collection of boldly hued suits, glimmering column dresses, and truly voluminous gowns for ladies who want to make a statement on the black tie circuit. From his head-turning collection, to his own pirouette on the runway, we want to watch pretty much everything this designer has to offer. -Kerry Pieri

Ulla Johnson

The top fashion hashtags on Insta have the word “boho” in them. And Ulla Johnson is here to redefine what that means for today’s woman. Sure, sometimes she’s in a full leather suit, but she also loves a dreamy patchwork dress, a maxi gown with a nipped waist, ethereal lace skirts—and sometimes, a good jumpsuit. The designer is growing exponentially each season, debuting a line of opticals on today’s runway, and expanding an already-successful jewelry line made with a woman’s collective in Kenya. That kind of conscious design mixed with the look so many women are after—pretty, modern, and yes, a little boho—is a recipe for longevity in a business that seems harder to crack each year. –Kerry Pieri

Tom Ford

The Fall 2020 season in didn’t actually kick off at NYFW. Instead, Tom Ford stayed close to home to showcase his latest in Los Angeles—complete with a star studded front row that included Jon Hamm in a silver suit. But onto the runway, where full glamour was on display for Oscars weekend, with a little grit by way of patchwork jeans, sweatsuits, and logo tees thrown in for the Chateaux Marmont crowd. But what really brought down the house was Bella Hadid in a sheer sequin dress that looked to be tied onto her body with velvet—and just as easily removed. If there’s ever been a designer who understands the power of suggestion, it’s Mr. Ford. -Kerry Pieri

Camilla and Marc

Camilla Freeman-Topper has a way with tailoring, and a pulse on creating clothing that’s definitely for adults, but very cool adults. The brand is also increasing its space in the accessories market with some enviable slide sandals, tall boots, and little bags. Fall 2020 saw the Aussie designer have a bit of a love affair with Palm Springs, resulting in some desert hues and airy separates. The heyday of the Cali getaway, the 60s, and 70s, were also apparent in some flowing cut-out gowns and groovy minis. -Kerry Pieri